Cowboy Hats 101: Everything You Need to Know

May 8, 2025 98 view(s)

What Exactly is a Cowboy Hat?

Cowboy hats, known for their high crowns and wide brims, are iconic symbols of North American cowboys and the American West. Originally designed for practical use, these hats offer protection from the sun, rain, and other elements. They are typically crafted from materials such as fur-based felt, straw, or leather.

Beyond their practical purpose, cowboy hats have become a fashion staple. They frequently appear in media and events like horse shows and are worn today for both their functionality and style.

Cowboy hats displayed on shelvesCowboy hats displayed on shelves

Cowboy hat showing the parts of the hat (crown, crease and dents, brim, hat band, sweatband)Cowboy hat showing the parts of the hat (crown, crease and dents, brim, hat band, sweatband)

What makes a Cowboy Hat?

  • Crown - the domed portion of the hat, usually around ~4½”-5¾” tall

  • Crease and Dents - the dimples and depressions at the top of the hat

  • Brim - the ring around the outside of the crown usually ranges from 3¾”-4½” long

  • Hat Band - the decorative band around the OUTSIDE of the crown. The hat band clip will be found on the left side of the hat

  • Sweatband - the leather ring around the INSIDE of the brim


From Summer Heat to Winter Chill: Straw vs. Felt Cowboy Hats

Straw hats - best for keeping cool during summerStraw hats - best for keeping cool during summer
Felt hats - these hats are often a combination of felt or wool + other furs Felt hats - these hats are often a combination of felt or wool + other furs

Straw Hats 

Straw hats are ideal for staying cool in the summer heat. Lightweight and breathable, they offer excellent ventilation and are commonly worn between Memorial Day and Labor Day. While typically more affordable and cooler than felt hats, they tend to be less durable over time.

Felt Hats 

Felt hats are typically made from a blend of wool and various animal furs, such as beaver, hare, buffalo, or mink. Commonly worn between Labor Day and Memorial Day, they provide warmth and durability, making them ideal for cooler months. While felt hats are generally more expensive than straw hats, they also tend to last longer. They’re the most popular choice for Western shows and are often worn year-round.


So, what's your Felt Hat made of?

Hat makers often use animal furs such as beaver, mink, and chinchilla to craft the bodies of felt hats. The quality of a hat is typically indicated by the number of X’s—a higher number generally means a higher percentage of premium fur, though the system isn't always standardized. Beaver fur, in particular, is prized for being lightweight, easy to shape, and exceptionally durable. It retains its form over time, has a soft, velvety texture, and offers greater water resistance compared to other materials, making it a top choice for long-lasting, high-quality hats.


Cowboy hat showing the parts of the hat (crown, crease and dents, brim, hat band, sweatband)Cowboy hat showing the parts of the hat (crown, crease and dents, brim, hat band, sweatband)

Choosing Cowboy Hat Colors: Style Tips for Every Season

When picking a cowboy hat color, it’s best to avoid clashing hues that can disrupt your overall look. Instead, think about the season to keep your outfit cohesive and stylish. Bright, vibrant colors are perfect for spring and summer, adding a fresh, lively touch. As the weather cools, darker shades blend seamlessly with fall and winter wardrobes, giving a warm, classic feel. By matching your hat’s color to both your outfit and the season, you’ll ensure a polished and put-together appearance every time.

Which Hat Crown Shape Suits You Best?

  • Open Crown - all cowboy hats start with a smooth, round top - some stay this way. Most crowns are then creased & shaped to the owner’s preference

  • Gambler aka Telescope - a large, flat circular depression that shortens & squares the crown

  • Gus - old west original hat crown with 3 forward depressions

  • Teardrop aka Pinch Front - teardrop shaped depression found in fedoras

  • Brick - a brick-shaped depression atop the crown, worn by bull riders

  • Cattleman - The classic cowboy hat found everywhere at Western Shows & many more!


Which Face Shape are You?

  • Triangular face – A shorter brim and narrower in front (teardrop shaped) is ideal.

  • Oval face - almost anything can work. Consider more personal style and things like your overall stature when choosing your shape.

  • Round face - avoid wide brims and rounded crowns. Add some height but not width. A high crown height and a curved front brim is ideal. 

  • Diamond face – Stick with an angled and curved front brim.
  • Square face – Your hat should have softer lines. Avoid any harsh creases. A wide front brim and rounded crown is ideal. 
  • Long narrow face – A moderate hat that sits lower on the head. The crown dents should be smaller so the hat can sit a bit lower on the head. A wide, curved front brim and medium crown height is ideal.

Finding the Perfect Hat Fit

Your hat should fit snug enough so it won’t easily fall off and will stay put in a stiff wind. It should not leave the mark of a ring around your forehead, that is an indication it is too tight. You want your hat to be comfortable and fit your head shape well.

Hat Face shapesHat Face shapes

Be Sure to Balance your Features

For angular faces, it's best to soften sharp features with a rounded crown and a curved or rounded brim. On the other hand, softer, rounder faces benefit from more structure—opt for an angular crown and a brim with a flatter front to add definition. Those with smaller stature or round faces should also lean toward sharper lines to create balance and elongate the look.


From Flat to Curved: Exploring Hat Brim Shapes

  • Buckaroo - completely flat brim all the way around
  • Rancher - low roll, slightly curved brim shape
  • Bull Rider - wide brim with low sides
  • Reiner Low Sides aka Low Rodeo - wide, small slant
  • Cutter - brim angle between reiner low sides & reiner high sides
  • Reiner High Sides - Brim sides are high but not quite to 90
  • Western Pleasure aka Showmanship show crease / “taco” shaped hat

Custom Hat Opening Shapes for the Perfect Fit

  • Oval - this shape will fit many heads but not all
  • Long Oval - it’s hard to fit this shape on a round head
  • Round - it’s hard to fit this shape on a narrow head
  • Padding - foam or tape can be added to the sweatband for final fit

Can’t find the brim style you want?
Reach out to us—we’ll assist you
.

 


Hat Care & Maintenance Guide

Cleanliness & Stain Prevention

  • While high-quality hats are durable, they’re still vulnerable to scuffs and stains. To protect your hat:
  • Always wash your hands before handling it—natural skin oils can transfer to the hat and attract dirt and residue, leading to stubborn stains
  • If you notice dirt or marks, spot clean immediately using a baby wipe
  • After each use, clean your hat before storing it. For felt hats, use a soft-bristled brush to remove dust and dirt:
    • Brush the top of the brim and the crown counterclockwise
    • Brush the underside of the brim clockwise

Tools & Techniques

  • Use a hat sponge only on lower-quality hats (typically 6X and under)
  • A horsehair hat brush is safe for all quality levels
  • Keep your cleaning tools separate:
    • Use dark brushes for dark hats
    • Use light brushes for light hats

Moisture Protection

  • Avoid getting lower-quality hats wet
  • If your hat becomes damp from rain, sweat, or humidity:
    • Always dry it thoroughly after use
    • Place it upside down on its crown until completely dry to preserve its shape

Proper Handling

  • Always handle your hat by the crown, not the brim, to avoid warping and stains
  • When setting it down, place it on the crown, not the brim
  • Regularly check your hat for signs of wear or damage, and address any issues promptly to extend its lifespan.
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Hat Storage & Transport Made Easy 

  • Never store felt hats in plastic bags
  • Use one of the following for storage:
    • Original cardboard box
    • Plastic hat box
    • Hat rack (for short-term use
  • For long-term storage:
    • Ensure the hat is completely dry to prevent mold
    • Keep it in a cool, dry, climate-controlled space, away from direct sunlight and temperature extremes
    • Avoid storing in hot environments (like horse trailers or cars)—this can cause your hat to shrink
  • When using a hard-sided case, consider a custom hat form insert. This provides tailored support and helps maintain your hat’s shape during storage and travel
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Hat Cleaning & Shaping Services – While You Wait or at Your Convenience

At our Streetsboro location, we specialize in cleaning and shaping all types of hats—including straw hats, felt hats, fashion hats, and derby styles. Nearly all of our showroom staff are professionally trained to shape and clean your hat with care and precision. Whether you prefer to wait while we freshen up your favorite piece or drop it off at your convenience, we've got you covered.

 

Visit us at 9440 State Route 14, Streetsboro, Ohio—we’re here to help your hat look its best!

1-800-321-2142 ~ www.bigdweb.com

 


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