Whether your tack is brand new or dug out of a “diamond in the rough” bin at a tack swap, your tack is an investment. The better you take care of that investment, the longer it will last – and the safer it will keep your horse and you.
While some leather items might have a standard cleaning process, like halters or horse boots, items like saddles and bridles require a little more consideration.
Basic Tips
Before you are ready to clean, here are some basic tips that will help you get the best result.
1.) Prepare yourself for the time needed to clean your tack the correct way.
2.) Warm water is best when cleaning your tack as it helps activate the products. You can still use cold water, just know it may require a little bit of extra effort on your end.
3.) Moderation is key when using products on your tack. If you need three coats, do three light coats, versus one massive gooped on swipe of cleaner or conditioner. Remember, leather should be supple, flexible, and sturdy. Your tack shouldn’t be saturated with product, nor should it be brittle and dry.
4.) Lastly, leather does not like extremes – when selecting cleaning products, search for one that is pH neutral, so it is not harsh on your tack and increases longevity.
Pictured: Both bridles are the same style, age and have had the same kind of use. The top bridle was cleaned and conditioned and immediately more supple than the bottom bridle that was dry and less flexible when bending.
New Saddle Cleaning Tips
If you are buying a brand-new saddle, check that saddle’s warranty information BEFORE you start cleaning! Some of your favorite products may void your warranty depending on your saddle & the company that made your saddle. Several brands will come with a small cleaning kit that is best suited to the care of your saddle and within your warranty. A quick check will save a lot of hassle down the road. Most new saddles come with a wax layer that needs to be properly removed. To remove this protective layer, use a pH neutral cleaning product like Castile Soap or Leather Therapy Wash. Using a small amount of water and soap, gently work the product into the saddle with a sponge to open the pores of the leather and prepare the surface for conditioning.
General Saddle Cleaning Tips
As mentioned in the previous section, castile soap or Leather Therapy Wash are great products to clean your saddle. Leather Therapy Wash is safe to use on just about any leather item and won’t darken the leather over time.
Another thing to be mindful of is the water you are using when cleaning. Hard water is harsh on black and dark leather as it can leave mineral deposits or cause corrosion.
For those tough to reach areas or heavily tooled tack, try using a toothbrush (you will be pleasantly surprised how much easier it is).
Tooling can be time consuming to keep clean, but looks absolutely stunning!
Balsam or Oil?
After thoroughly cleaning your tack, the next step is to condition the leather. Not all conditioners are created equally nor does one product work for all the different parts of your saddle. There are two surfaces on leather – the raw side (or open side) is rough like the underside of fenders and flaps, and the sealed side (or closed side) is the smooth leather surface, like what you sit on. Oils are used on the raw side of leather only; they WILL darken the leather and they WILL soak through if applied too heavily. Conditioners like Effax Leather Balsam are made from beeswax and lanolin to bring out the suppleness of leather without making the surface slick. Other great conditioning options are Leather Therapy Conditioner, Amerigo Balm, Walsh Oil (if you want to darken the leather) and Bates Leather Balsam (if you want a slightly tackier surface).
To properly condition your leather, use light coats and let your tack air dry. If there is any excess conditioner, wipe it off with a rag as leather does not like to be saturated. Similarly, if your leather is still dry, apply another light coat and repeat this process until the leather is supple again.
(Left) Sealed side of leather on an English saddle. (Middle) Raw side under the English saddle flap. (Right) Comparison of tooled sealed side of Western saddle and raw side under the fender.
When conditioning your saddle, be mindful of the seams of your saddle and the flocking, foam or combination of the two in your English saddle’s panels. These materials do not like getting oil or moisture in them so be careful not to heavily cover these areas when applying conditioner.
To preserve the integrity of your flocked or foam panels, take extra care around the saddle’s seams.
Remember, use light coats regardless if you are using an oil or balsam. Let the tack air dry naturally. If there is any excess conditioner, wipe it off with a rag. If your leather is still dry, apply another light coat. Repeat this process until the suppleness is back in your bridle or saddle.
Chrome and Bits
Keeping the chrome on your saddle shiny is very easy if you make it a part of your regular cleaning. Whether your saddle is covered in silver or just has a few pieces, Never Dull is a fabulous wadding polish for all metals. For a more aggressive cleaner, try Simichrome Silver Polish. It is great at cleaning even the most corroded and tarnished silver on saddles and bridles. However, due to its harsh nature, it should not be used on bits. With any silver cleaner, use a small amount on Q-tips or throw-away sponges to apply, then buff out for a lustrous shine.
If you’re wanting to clean up your bits, the Herm Sprenger Diamond Paste Bit Polish is the product to use. It is non-toxic, non-acidic and brings back shine to not only bits, but spurs and stirrups as well.
(Left) Slightly tarnished concho. (Middle) Simichrome only requires a small amount, it comes out pink but once applied turns into a milky white paste. Remove with a rag, buffing the surface in the process. (Right) Polished silver concho.
Daily Maintenance
Most of us don’t have the time to deeply clean and condition our tack every time we ride. However, to prevent the build-up of dirt, oil and sweat, you should at least wipe your tack down after every ride. To avoid build-up, especially on the inside of your reins, give your tack a quick wipe with a cleaning wipe like Oakwood Wipes. Simply wipe down your tack and put away – easy breezy! Another great option is to use an all-in-one product like Lexol Quick Care.
To take the best care of your equipment, it’s recommended to deep clean your tack a minimum of 2 times a year but more is best. When deep cleaning, you should be disassembling your bridle & saddle to ensure it is still structurally safe to use, cleaned and conditioned before putting it back together.
When deep cleaning, take apart your tack and check the structural integrity as well as condition.
Storage
Whether you’re using your tack daily or its in storage for the winter months, where your tack lives is important to consider. If your tack is kept in a moist environment, it is more likely to grow mildew which can damage your tack long term and is a pain to clean. When storing tack for long periods of time without use, ensure to regularly clean them and keep them stored in a dry area with a cover or case. If you need to store bits long term, put a very light layer of Vaseline on them and store them in a small unsealed plastic bag.
Protective Coat
A layer of glycerin can create a light protective coat on your tack. To apply a protective coat to your tack, dip a Glycerin Bar Soap into water before taking a clean sponge over the bar. Lightly apply a layer of soap with the sponge to the tack. Avoid using too much as it will clog the pores of the leather and dry out your tack. Once a light layer has been applied, let the tack dry naturally before wiping away any excess with a cloth.
Other Kinds of Oils
There are many other oils on the market for leather goods, however, they are not alike. Mink Oil is often mentioned and recommended; however, it is better at waterproofing leather than it is at conditioning. Mink Oil is a great option for winter boots as an element barrier but will not make the leather supple like other oils and balsams. While olive oil can technically be used, it was not designed for leather, and is not recommended. Another common oil is Murphy’s Oil. It is not a great product for cleaning tack, however if you have no other options, use it in very small amounts. While petroleum may be considered as a conditioner, be very wary of products that use it as it is hard on the stitching of your tack. Remember when using any product on your tack, leather should not be saturated when cleaning.
Final Word
At the end of the day, the main point of having tack is to it keep you safe and secure when riding, driving, working, or leading horses. You should make it a priority to not only check our tack regularly but keep it clean and conditioned so it can perform its best. Once you get familiar with the products and routine, it becomes less of a chore and more of a point of pride. Clean, supple leather not only keeps you safe, but also looks incredible!
